Bill of Materials
Every part you need, whether you're getting the board fabricated or wiring one up by hand.
Everything on this list is a normal, easy-to-find part: nothing export-controlled, nothing exotic. Just a small dev board, some addressable LEDs, and a handful of passive components.
If you're getting the board fabricated
This is what's currently used to build the device. A board fabrication service places and solders everything except the microcontroller. You solder that one part on yourself (see the build guide).
| Part | What it is | How many |
|---|---|---|
| Waveshare RP2040-Zero | The microcontroller board, which runs the firmware | 1 |
| WS2812B-2020 | Addressable RGB LED | 10 |
| 470 µF electrolytic capacitor | Smooths out power to the LEDs | 1 |
| 100 nF ceramic capacitor | One per LED, keeps each one stable | 10 |
| 330 Ω resistor | Sits on the data line to protect against signal issues | 1 |
Enclosure: a 3D-printed case (base and lid) that lets the light through while hiding the electronics.
The full sourcing details (exact part numbers, manufacturers, datasheets) live in the KiCad-generated files in the project's hardware folder on GitHub, which are the source of truth if this table and those files ever disagree. That's also where to start if you want to get your own board fabricated: see Build Guide.
If you're prototyping on a breadboard
For testing without a fabricated board:
| Part | How many | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Waveshare RP2040-Zero | 1 | |
| LED strip board (WS2812-style, 10 LEDs) | 1 | |
| Half-size breadboard | 1 | |
| Jumper wires (male-to-male, male-to-female) | 1 set | |
| 3-pin connector matching the LED strip's header | 1 | Match whatever connector type your strip actually has |
| USB-C to USB-A cable | 1 | Make sure it's a data cable, not a charge-only one. Many cheap cables are charge-only |
| 74HCT125 level shifter | 1 (optional) | Only needed if you run into data-line glitches |
| 330–470 Ω resistor | 1 (optional but recommended) | On the data line, near the strip |
| Electrolytic capacitor, 100–1000 µF, 6.3V or higher | 1 (optional but recommended) | Across power and ground, near the strip. Mind the polarity: it only goes in one way. |
No soldering needed here beyond attaching header pins to the RP2040-Zero. Everything else just plugs together.
A few things worth knowing
- If a fabrication service is placing the parts for you, double-check the listed components are actually in that service's stock before finalizing an order. Hand-soldering doesn't have this constraint.
- If you're designing your own version of the LED board, it's worth ordering a spare: cheap insurance against a dead LED or an accidentally-reversed connection.
- An earlier version of this device used 3 separate colored bulbs instead of the LED strip. It's kept for reference but isn't part of the current build.